Holly’s bespoke blazer!
Feather Print Bespoke Blazer ~ Felicity Fabric Make
The Sew to Grow Bespoke Blazer is a lovely little simple blazer pattern. I’ve made one previously in a lightweight crepe but thought it was about time I revisited the pattern to make up another in a more structured fabric.
The fabric I chose to use is one of the uniquest fabrics I’ve sewn with yet. It’s got the thickness and feel of a canvas, but it’s bouncy like a polyester. It’s got this gorgeous bright feather print all over it on a dark navy background and the reverse is white. It took me a while to ponder what to make with it but I settled on a lightweight, smart-casual style jacket. I thought it would hold its shape nicely for a jacket and still keep me warm enough for the coming Autumn/Winter months.
The Bespoke Blazer is a partially lined, hip length blazer with a simple collar and lapels. It’s available in sizes XS (33 inch bust) to 4XL (48 inch bust) and is available as a PDF or in paper format. The back bodice is made up of three pattern pieces, which provide shaping for a smarter look. There’s also options to have 3/4 or full length sleeves.
I sewed up the XS size as my bust is a 32 inch and there is plenty of ease at the waist and hips as it is an open jacket style. There are separate fabric requirements for the main fabric and lining however if you are using the same fabric throughout (which I did – as this means that the lapels are the same fabric as the outer) then you can just add the requirements for each together (totalling 2.75yrds/m). I had 2 metres of 150cm wide fabric which easily fit all the pieces in for this size, the front main and lining pieces are quite large so this pattern can become quite fabric hungry for a simple blazer! So if in doubt just lay out your pattern pieces first to check how much fabric you need for your size.
The actual construction of the blazer is very straightforward, the instructions are excellent and the diagrams make it really clear to see what goes where. The pattern uses the ‘Buritto method’ to finish the side seams neatly within the front lining, which is very clever and makes for a lovely finish inside too. It’s mildly head scratching to make sure the seams you’re sewing together are the right ones, all of the jacket kind of ends up inside itself, and then you pull it out to reveal it all neatly finished! But if you follow the instructions carefully they’ll get you there. It’s also worth mentioning there’s not an awful lot of gathering required at the sleeve head and so the sleeves don’t need setting in too much, only a little bit.
I used a 4cm hem on the sleeves which was a little more than the instructions say, just because I liked where that finished on my arm. I also hand stitched the back collar down to the neckline at the back just so that area kept its shape. I paired it with a plain cami top and my light pink jeans for a night out for dinner and I’m really pleased with it!
I love the colours in the jacket, they are very vivid and bright and so unusual! I’m happy I made this fabric up as a jacket, as the fabric is a polyester blend it isn’t the softest on the skin, so it’s perfect for outerwear, a skirt or a pinafore style garment. It will definitely brighten up any outfit as well as pair really well with lots of things in my wardrobe!
I’d recommend the Bespoke Blazer to an adventurous beginner sewer or above. Even though it’s a simple design, setting in the sleeves (although not difficult ones) and using the ‘Burrito method’ (also not difficult once you’ve got your head round it) means you’ll want to have a basic understanding of garment construction first. It was really nice to use a different fabric for this make too, I think it works really well in a structured fabric and makes the jacket look a bit smarter. I’m looking forward to finding ways to style it with other things in my wardrobe – there are so many colours in the fabric though I don’t think that will be too difficult!