Hey everyone! I’m Rose (known on Instagram and my blog as ‘Gold and Silver Stitches‘) and I am so happy to be writing this blog post for Felicity Fabrics! Felicity Fabrics have such a swoon-worthy selection of dressmaking fabrics available, you are guaranteed to find something to fall head over heels for. I was deliberating hard over which fabric to choose, but when this beautiful viscose twill appeared in February, I had to make it mine!
This viscose twill has an abstract design of pale pink and white irregular shapes on a black background, like jagged shards of glass; as much as I love a retro polka-dot print (and I really do!), this different design feels very fresh and modern. The drape is very fluid and the fabric feels smooth to the touch. While this fabric is 100% viscose and fairly floaty, the twill weave gives the fabric some structure and made it easier to handle during cutting and pinning! I made sure to use my walking foot to prevent any shifting and a 70-sized microtex needle to avoid any snagging. Unfortunately this ‘Shards’ viscose twill is currently sold out, but there are other lovely options at Felicity Fabrics — check out these vibrant paisley viscose twills in either blue or gold!
I hunted in my pattern stash to find a garment that would suit the modern shard pattern and the fluid drape of the viscose and landed on Vogue 9075, a pattern for either a dress or jumpsuit. Vogue 9075 has a classic princess-seamed bodice with optional short sleeves and a choice between a full gathered skirt or wide-legged, pleated culottes — importantly, both bottom options feature pockets! I have a certain weakness for skater dresses but I fancied making something a little different, so I decided to go for the chic jumpsuit. The finished garment measurements are printed on the pattern tissue, so using that as my guideline, I cut a size 10 at the shoulders and blended to a 12 at the waist. I also made a full-bust adjustment on the princess seams, which is a fairly usual adjustment I make, and I also lowered the neckline by a touch. I have to admit, I am pretty chuffed with how well the bodice fits me after all those tweaks!
This jumpsuit came together fairly quickly, but like other sewists of this pattern, I have a couple of quibbles! V9075 is part of the ‘Very Easy Vogue’ subline, yet while the instructions are fairly detailed, they neglect to mention finishing any seams and understitching the pockets. I overlocked all of my seams, as this material was prone to fraying, but maybe next time I would try French seams to keep everything neater. Also, you are instructed to baste the pleats in place, but there is no mention of removing the basting and/or topstitching the pleats down — I went ahead and unpicked my basting, as I liked the look of flowing, unstructured pleats. I also took my time inserting the invisible zip and making sure the waistline matched on either side.
The bodice is fully lined, so I used some leftover Lady McElroy cotton lawn from a recent project. I alway opt to add a fun printed lining if I am sewing something that isn’t too sheer — it feels opulent and is like a secret little love-letter to myself! I overlocked the fabric and lining together at the armhole seam, before slip-stitching the lining in place along the invisible zip and waistline.
I love my finished jumpsuit, it is the perfect amount of swishy and stylish! I would say this pattern is ideal for an adventurous beginner who already has completed a few projects and wants to push themselves — this garment can be made up in a variety of fabrics, including denim, crepe and linen. I am definitely planning on making another version and want to give the dress a try too 😊
Thanks so much to Felicity Fabrics for providing me with this beautiful fabric!
Thanks for reading and happy sewing until next time!